Many cues have tapered points on the forearm.

These are usually inlayed with a contrasting timber.

Veneers can also be added to give some contrasting colour.

Here are a few examples.

Here is the process for both, it is the same, just the dimensions that change.

I like to use Australian hardwoods where I can, as they are world class.

Pieces shown here are Tasmanian Blackwood, it has beautiful grain.

I have been playing with 3D printed parts for a while and have produced a few pool related products.

Items currently available:

• Cue Holder
• Ball Marker
• Moosehead Bridge Head
• Chalk Holder
• Ghost Ball Aimer
• Joint Protectors

This shaft came to me with a completely smashed ferrule.

I was told it was caused by a massive miscue, I would love to have seen the shot!

There is a chip in the wood which broke away with the ferrule, will need filling.

This shows a job I did for a customer who wanted to be certain his tip would not come off his break cue!

It is a phenolic ferrule & tip combo.

Old ferrule was scratched and badly mushroomed.

Turned out really nice.

You cant have too much measuring equipment.

I have heaps of dial indicators, micrometers, depth micrometers, and internal gauges etc.

And of course, my mill and lathe are both computer controlled so I can just dial in the required sizes.

My table saw makes a mess! It does have a vacuum attachment, but there is still lots of cleanup required.

I mainly use this to cut long timber into squares so I can turn them round for butts and shafts.

I mainly use my bandsaw for cutting point blanks, as well as cutting blank forearms or handles prior to turning round.